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Thread: [GUIDE] Fix iMac flickering and dark screen problems out of warranty

  1. #1
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    Exclamation [GUIDE] Fix iMac flickering and dark screen problems out of warranty

    Simple fix that saves you a lot of money



    If you have and iMac and are having problems with those annoying problems of flickering and parts of your screen are becoming darker (On the left side primary) you may want to consider this easy fix

    If you have a Late 2009 27" iMac and are having problems with those annoying problems of flickering and parts of your screen are becoming darker (On the left side primary) you may want to consider this easy guide to fix it if you run out of warranty, have no Apple Care and Apple wanted to charge you about $600 to replace your screen. You need no tools and the cost os this procedure is 0.

    First Step: Be sure that you are experiencing the same symptoms

    This guide is only to resolve flickering and dimming problems on you iMac screen. Primary occurring on the left side (becoming darker or with less brightness than the other side) and on Late 2009 27" iMacs but there are cases of the same problem on later computers too.

    Check/Read all of these posts to know if your case is the same:

    Thanks to the findings of nicholasfromconfolens we know that the problem resides in some parts of the screen getting loose for any reason (factory problem, heat, whatever) and if you apply pressure at certain point the flickering/dimming/darking disappears. The problem is that you need to maintain that pressure all the time.

    Second Step: Find the correct spot to apply pressure

    Without removing the glass panel of the iMac, try to press it strong enough (but don't use excessive force or you could break it) near the bottom left part to see if the dark/flickering disappears at some point. If it does, you are lucky, your problem has easy solution and you can proceed to the next step. If not, don't despair, your glass panel may be very strong and you will need to remove it to apply pressure. Head to the next step.

    Third Step: Removing the glass panel

    It is recommended to use suction cups to make this task more easily but it's not mandatory, you can remove the glass with your hands. The glass panel uses magnets to get in place all around and has some flaps on the bottom part. To remove it you need to hold it from the upper right and left corners and make force towards you, once it get loose just elevate it to remove the bottom flaps from its holes. You can follow these links with guides that clarifies this a bit more:

    Fourth Step: Pinpoint the correct spot to press and place something to maintain the pressure

    Once the glass panel has been removed, you must find where is the best point to apply pressure to get rid of the dimming/darking/flickering. The most common point is the left side between the rubber band of the screen and the grey band below. (See the photos for better understanding).

    Once you find the best spot, you need to place there something to increase the thickness in that point and to maintain pressure when the glass panel is mounted again. I suggest you to use a pair of adhesive strips/pads mounted one over the other made of rubber or textile material that are used to put under furniture (chairs, tables) to prevent them to scratch the floor (I don't know the exact name in English, sorry).

    Fifth Step: Mount the glass panel again

    Mount the glass panel again and see if the pressure is enough to prevent the problem appearing again. If not, you should dismount the glass panel again and add more thickness to the "critical" spot adding more pads, but beware, add them gradually or the pressure may be excessive and break the glass when you remount it.

    Final Step:

    Enjoy your "new" screen and the saving of nearly $600 on repair costs.

    Here below you can fin some photos and a video of my "set-up" to fix the problem.





    I hope this guide helps you. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.


    Our thanks to 'Kaos2K' for this writing this guide for our valued MaxConsole Readers!
    -=( GaryOPA your friendly http://www.MAXCONSOLE.com v2.0 Admin )=-

  2. #2
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    HAHAHAHA

    A 2009 Mac monitor with problems??? Really?? What crap.


    I have an Acer LCD 22 from 2005 and I have yet to see an issue with it.

    Proof once again that Apple produces crap products.

  3. #3
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    lol oh dear. dear dear. the price one pays for apple products you'd expect them to come with 5 years warranty and not go wrong as much *looks at his new ipad that strangely enough keeps gosting images for a long time after switching apps*
    [My links are not selling counterfeit products, and link to a genuine lawfirm, if people can make use of it, more the better. I have never spammed or flooded my posts with my "message". NEVER a single time. With all due respect, I hope you realise it takes all kinds to make this community. Some of us are schoolkids who link to manga websites, others have our own businesses who may link to it. Not all fingers are the same, and not everyone spams. Sincerely].

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    Now don't be silly, this is a feature, all Apple fans love the features. And if you don't buy that arguement, then it's because you can't afford the money to waste that they do which is why you are not claiming all apple products are godly (you must deny any thoughts that you could have bought better for less with a PC or far better for the same price for that arguement to work).

    you know it kind of makes me think that apple is the first sign of the end of days, the religious fairy tale about how eating the apple of knowlege gave people free will and intelligence, Apple sheep are eating the apple of stupidity and so loose free will and inteligence but they are happy in ignorance it would seem
    My gaming systems -
    Consoles - Wii, Xbox 360 Elite, Xbox 360 Jtag Jasper 2TB 3.5" HDD, PS3 60GB UK launch version, PS3 hacked with 500GB 3.5" HDD (2TB wouldn't work ).

    PC - i7 3930K @4.6GHZ, Asus Rampage IV Extreme, 2xRadeon 7970, 32GB DDR3, 4TB Raid HDD (4X Samsung Spinpoint F3, SSD boot drive OCZ Vertex 3 120GB )

    These are gaming systems I am biased towards (may as well throw in everything from last gen and before as if the PC can emulate it I am likley to have it)

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    Ok. I think i have found the real root of the problem that causes all this flickering and darneking on the screen and why applying pressure works sometimes but it's not a permanent solution

    There is a LED connector on the rear side of the screen (You need to remove the display from your mac to access it) located at the lower right corner (left corner if you look at the screen from the front) that may be causing all this trouble. It is hidden beneath the sticky silver paper and adhesive strips. The pins of this connector (both board or cable ends) may be loose, broken or not well soldered due to the stress, heat or whatever. This causes that power is not reaching the LED lights on that part of the screen and therefore, the dark corner and flickering when they are making contact and suddenly they are not.

    I removed the connector completely, connected the screen again and power up the iMac and guess what? It booted up correctly with no errors but with the dark corner being permanent.

    The solution is to fix the connector by soldering it correctly (maybe just a small push would solve it for you) or soldering the cables directly to the 6 points needed (The bigger two of the sides appears to be just physical anchorage for the connector). I'm currently doing that now. I'll update this entry with my results.

    Meanwhile you can you can watch this video/photos i have just uploaded for you to see:








    Last edited by Kaos2K; 06-22-2012 at 02:03 PM.
    &

  6. #6
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    Confirmed, i fixed the screen problems permanently by removing the faulty connector and soldering 6 wires directly to the points that you can see in the photos.






    My iMac's screen brightness is now better than ever.

    And finally, i made a custom wallpaper with the photos i have taken when my computer was open.

    &

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