still doesn't work. very frustrating. I guess I'll return it and try to get a new one . ...
still doesn't work. very frustrating. I guess I'll return it and try to get a new one . ...
Originally Posted by crono
you're actually trying to brick it?
Whit power off ofcourse, its very difficult to brick it when flashing, you must really do your best to brick it.
well, i tried to flash my ndsl today with a g6l and bricked it[SIZE="1"] (turns out the power outlet i was using was tempermental and faulty)[/SIZE]
okay so, i'm a little worried but i hear i could boot directly to the card
ITS NOT WORKING
the mirror i was using was a broken mirror because it's the only one i could find so in my panic i sliced my thumb on it
i continued trying to boot from the card in the process getting blood all over my ds and everything else, this was very frightening
in the end i ended having to re-flash from my m3 but now i have a bloodstained dsvery cool
Last edited by galaxykidgamma; 07-10-2006 at 05:23 PM.
Perhaps your blood re-shorted the SL1 point.
Glad that it turned out well for you.
Bricked a DS Lite myself last night - my own stupid fault for not using a proper tool to bridge SL1 (I used a flat headed screw). Stopped at 4% and then switched itself off. Managed to get back in using the 'recovery option' but would not go past 4% and kept on switching off. After several atttempts something must of 'blown' - would not charge / switch on or anything.
However.... took it back to shop and flashed my replacement no bother at all using a toothpick covered in tin foil
This was using Passkey 2 and M3
oh how easy it was to flash a phat DS. just stick a random bit of metal in and waggle it about without a care in the world.Bricked a DS Lite myself last night - my own stupid fault for not using a proper tool to bridge SL1 (I used a flat headed screw). Stopped at 4% and then switched itself off. Managed to get back in using the 'recovery option' but would not go past 4% and kept on switching off. After several atttempts something must of 'blown' - would not charge / switch on or anything.
However.... took it back to shop and flashed my replacement no bother at all using a toothpick covered in tin foil
This was using Passkey 2 and M3
But after hearing about all these bricks I'm too scared to flash my lite.
Hey Bobby, DaveyChan at SCDev pointed this out:
Read more on http://scdev.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4339This is for those of you who have been worried about the latest rumors about the NDSL shutting itself down when you bridge the SL1 point on the latest wave of NDSLs....
Okay, first of all... it WILL power down, but there are reasons for this, and ways around it! Keep reading!
I have personally flashed about 12 units, all from various release dates, some from day one wave here in Tokyo (mine! ), and three just yesterday from last week's wave release....
Thanks, but I haven't been able to view scdev.org for a couple of weeks now. Cannot find server. No Idea why?
That link is wrong, when I flashed my lite I lost contact with sl1 twice but connected again after about 3 seconds and i still finished the process in about 30 seconds, honestly having no health screen is brilliant straight on to the games
To anyone thinking of flashing a DS Lite just get a mirror, make a insulated tool out of foil and tape and plug the DS in, it is so easy just don't do anything stupid
Maybe your DNS server went crazy.
Here is the original post
Greetz,
This is for those of you who have been worried about the latest rumors about the NDSL shutting itself down when you bridge the SL1 point on the latest wave of NDSLs....
Okay, first of all... it WILL power down, but there are reasons for this, and ways around it! Keep reading!
I have personally flashed about 12 units, all from various release dates, some from day one wave here in Tokyo (mine! ), and three just yesterday from last week's wave release. I experimented with several different units yesterday (flashed and un-flashed) in order to find out the "truth" about these rumors. I think this is useful information (Pin?!?), and I'm passing it on so you don't make a terrible mistake, or feel the need to experiment around with your new $200 toy.
Okay, here is the list of conclusions I have made from yesterday's experimentation. For each of these, I used the "scientific method" and repeated the situation numerous times on four different units of different release dates before deciding "this is the way it works."
Here goes:
1) If you don't have the AC adapter plugged in, the unit will immediately power down when you bridge the SL1! It doesn't seem to matter what charge percentage the battery is at, if you aren't plugged in, you are going to get black screens when you touch that SL1! PLUG IN YOUR UNIT! Simple, easy, and safe.
==The following are assuming you are now plugged in!==
2) If you bridge the SL1 and then remove it, the next time you bridge, you will power off. Basically, this means you've got one try to get this right! (If you have begun a flash and didn't complete it, there are recovery methods, and results vary. Check this forum for information about this before you cry.) If you twist, fidget, sneeze, or had too many burritos and salsa for lunch... be warned! When flashing, I recommend holding the NDSL vertically in one solid grip, and use your other steady hand to control your bridging tool. Some like using a mirror to see the screen. Do whatever is most comfortable for you! Next, put your bridging tool in the hole in one smooth motion and then FREEZE!, and hold it there. If the percentage counter starts increasing, just keep waiting. If it doesn't, I strongly recommend you remove your tool, power off, and START OVER. The reason for this is that if you managed to bridge the gap, but didn't hold it long enough to kick start the flash, you'll lose power the second time you touch that SL1.
3) If you touch anything other than the SL1, specifically the metal point immediately next to it, you will power off. It's an ugly situation, and people have blown fuses and more often then not, made a lovely new paperweight. Make damn sure you are using a tool that isn't going to flake or peel off metal bits (be sure those aluminum wrapped tools are tight!) and that you have complete control over whatever tool you are using. If you are especially paranoid or just not that confident in your ability to keep your hands steady, I recommend you consider the advice of several people on this forum. One of the more safe methods I've read about, is to use a plastic straw to create a shield around the SL1 so as not to risk any chance of touching something you shouldn't. Personally, i don't want more things getting in my way while I flash. Seems like just too much stuff with the mirrors, power cables, straws, pass cards, super cards, bridging tools (in my case a toothpick with foil), and not to mention the panting and salivating of the NDSL's owner, as he burns holes in your head with fear as you muck around with the their new toy!
Okay, that's about it. I hope this information helps relieve some of the fear going on about the new waves of NDSL being altered to prevent flashing. Best of luck!
In my opinion only the 3rd point is true. I lost coontact and when i rebridged it just carried on
It seems that flashme is designed to work this way, but for some people it just dosen't. I have seen all over the place different people agreeing w/ the guy gama quoted, and people saying stuff like "re-moving the short only PAUSES the process". This wasn't the case for me where re-shorting the sl1 caused it to shut down. I also experienced it shutting down immediately after the short because there was no power coming from my outlet (essentially it was unplugged). What percentage were you at when you lost contact? maybe that is a clue as to why we're seeing this discrepancy
i think it was about 60-65% and i lost it a few times around then so i took it out steadied myself and stuck it bakcin and it raced to 100%
Good news i recently got another ds lite which i flasheme'd easy.
Today i look on scdev.org and find how to unbrick an nds with no blown fuses.. i now have 2 nds lites with flashme. wooohooo
Hard to belive the bios is plug n play
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